In November 2025, two American alpinists completed the first ascent of Changla Khang (6,233 m) in a rarely visited region of Nepal near the Tibetan border. Climbed in true alpine style, the ascent highlights the kind of exploration that still defines modern mountaineering—quiet, deliberate, and far from the crowds.
For climbers like Sonam Saxena, who has experienced both iconic summits and demanding alpine routes, this type of climb reflects the core of mountaineering: moving into unknown terrain with limited information and relying on skill, judgment, and teamwork.
Alpine-Style Climbing
The climbers, Benjamin Lieber and Alex Hansen, chose the Southwest Ridge, a line rising roughly 1,200 meters from the glacier. The route involved mixed terrain with steep snow, water ice, and rock, rated up to WI4 and M4. They spent five days above base camp, carrying everything they needed and placing no fixed lines.
Near the summit, the team encountered a narrow chimney and exposed sections where retreat would have been difficult. According to the climbers, discovering solid ice in the final pitches allowed them to continue safely and reach the top. From the summit, they had sweeping views across Nepal, India, and Tibet.
Logistics in an Unmapped Region
Reaching Changla Khang was as challenging as the climb itself. The team trekked to the Lachama Glacier and spent nearly 10 days exploring side valleys before committing to the peak. With little existing route information, much of the expedition involved observation, patience, and adapting plans based on weather and terrain.
This approach mirrors how many small alpine teams operate today—minimal support, careful planning, and constant reassessment. For Sonam Saxena, this style of expedition reflects the importance of preparation and flexibility, values that apply whether climbing Everest or a lesser-known Himalayan peak.
Lessons for Future Climbs
The successful ascent of Changla Khang shows that Nepal still holds unclimbed peaks and unexplored routes, especially outside the well-known regions. For mountaineers seeking quieter objectives and technical challenges, these remote areas offer opportunities that reward experience and restraint rather than speed or scale.
As lightweight, alpine-style expeditions continue to gain momentum, climbs like this point toward a future where exploration remains central to mountaineering—one ridge, one decision, and one careful step at a time.
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